Although we started the third day of our Roman holiday early in the morning, it was in no way as intense as our second day. However, it was every bit as wonderful. After all, we were about to explore some more of Rome’s historic centre!
The plan was to start with the Pantheon. But, surprise-surprise, we arrived before it opened. So we had some time to slowly wake up and truly become all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed.
Breakfast next to Piazza della Rotonda
We had skipped breakfast, thinking we could have something to eat after visiting the Pantheon. With all the free time available, we decided to look for a nice place in the area and munch on something while dripping some delicious caffeine into our veins.
Right by the Piazza della Rotonda, we found a place called Don Nino. It seemed very cosy and their croissants and coffee were just what we needed.
On our way out, I noticed there was no line to the pantheon and there was this sign on a side street saying Fontana di Trevi – 20 minutes. And, since we don’t like crowds that much, I figured we could do this small detour to catch Fontana di Trevi and the nearby streets almost entirely empty.
Fontana di Trevi
I guessed right: there was almost nobody in sight. Not completely free of people, because let’s face it, it’s one of those places where there are always tourists, no matter the hour. This was not La dolce vita, but it was as sweet as it can get!
We looked around, threw our coins and took some really bad selfies. We don’t usually take selfies, so we lack the practice and we’re kind of against selfie sticks, too.
Right after we left Fontana di Trevi, heading to the Pantheon, I realised the button of my dress had come undone at the back, but we weren’t going to repeat the photos just for that.
I was especially looking forward to taking Mathieu to see the Pantheon. He truly enjoys studying how things are built and the ceiling and the floor designs particularly interested him here.
The entire interior of the Pantheon is breathtaking, to be honest. And the reason why this incredible building is so well preserved today is that it was turned into a church in the year 609.
The Pantheon was initially a pagan temple commissioned by Marcus Agrippa in the year 27 BC, during the reign of Emperor Augustus. That structure burned down, and in its place, Emperor Hadrian created the new structure between the years 118 and 125. Over time, the Pantheon has endured a lot: barbarians robbed it of whatever could be carried, Constantine II took the gold plates of the roof, and in 1625 Urban VIII melted the bronze panels of the ceiling to build a cannon for Sant’Angelo Castle. After all of this, the Pantheon remains one of the wonders of the world, even to this day.
Outside, in Piazza della Rotonda, in front of the Pantheon, we have the Fontana del Pantheon. Sculpted out of marble by Leonardo Sormani in 1575, the fountain stands high thanks to the later addition of Ramses’s obelisk, in 1711.
Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola
A bit later, we arrived in the lovely Piazza Sant’Ignazio, to visit one other work of art which I considered interesting for Mathieu: Chiesa di Sant’ Ignazio di Loyola. The church is famous for two absolutely amazing trompe l’oeil frescoes.
One is the stunning ceiling which can be easily admired in a well-positioned huge mirror.
And the second is the dome, which is actually an optical illusion.
Both works belong to Andrea Pozzo.
Piazza della Minerva
Not far from Piazza Sant’Ingazio, we have Piazza della Minerva. In its middle, there is the Elephant and Obelisk monument. The baby elephant is the work of Bernini, while the obelisk comes from the excavations of the Temple of Isis (Iseum).
Basilica Santa Maria Sopra Minerva was under restoration when we visited, unfortunately.
San Luigi dei Francesi
A bit disappointed that we didn’t get to see Basilica Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, we went to San Luigi dei Francesi, the national church of France in Italy. Here, you’ll find the famous trio of Caravaggio, in the chapel of St. Matthew.
(I think I should get extra brownie points for taking a French guy called Mathieu to see the Chapel of St. Matthew in San Luigi dei Francesi.)
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Almost around the corner from San Luigi dei Francesi, there is Chiesa di Sant’Agostino, one of the first churches built in Rome during the Renaissance. The church is famous for Caravaggio’s Madonna del Loreto, but I, as always, fell in love with the ceilings, as well.
After leaving Chiesa di Sant’Agostino we found ourselves right next to Palazzo Altemps. Because it was getting very hot outside and we had plenty of time to spare before lunch, we decided to visit the museum. And, when acquiring the ticket we got the ones that also included Palazzo Massimo, Terme di Diocletian, and Crypta Balbi. We chose to visit the others on different days, though.
We found Palazzo Altemps to be a jewel itself, with many of the murals and original ceilings well-preserved, at least in part.
Details from the Palazzo AltempsAnd its exhibits were interesting, too, combining the old and the new.
Wandering the Streets of Rome’s Historic Centre
At the end of our visit of Palazzo Altemps, we felt better being outside, so we wandered on the streets of Rome once more. Like Mathieu kept saying, what’s great about Rome is that even though you’re in a huge city, every time you get lost on the streets you have the feeling you’re in a small town. And as you move from one rione to another it’s as if you’re discovering a new village each time.
Campo de’ Fiori
Our wandering around eventually led us to Campo de’ Fiori. Which was nice, but considering how everybody kept telling us to go see it, we had higher expectations. (I, personally, didn’t really remember it from my previous Roman holiday.)
It was nice, but just like in Bitola, it’s not much different from the markets I see at home.
In contrast to Campo de’ Fiori, I remembered Piazza Navona quite well from ten years ago. Although the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi was under restoration back then, the Piazza was no less impressive. It was beautiful, imposing, and clean.
During the previous holiday, I was travelling with my parents and a friend of mine, Elena. My parents took us to Tre Scalini where we outraged the waiter when the two of us asked for pizza (Signorina, this is a restaurant! We don’t serve pizza here!). We decided to go with the lasagna and annoyed the waiter once again because we were feeding a pigeon with some breadcrumbs. 🙂
I also remember sitting with my dad on a bench in Piazza Navona, next to a nun. And she was speaking Italian and he was speaking Romanian, but they understood each other and had quite a long conversation.
This time, while I was happy to finally see the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi unveiled, Piazza Navona looked less impressive. It was crowded with tourists and it didn’t look clean anymore. It turned into this commercial area, with lots of merchants, and several terraces on the sides.
I checked out Tre Scalini, and its dusty umbrellas didn’t look as inviting as they did years ago. They might still be famous for their Tartufo, but going to an overpriced restaurant just for that didn’t really seem worth it, given the bitter taste I had from this comparison.
So we headed out to have lunch at Da Tonino instead.
Pasta and tiramisu at Da Tonino
When we got to Da Tonino we made it just in time to get a table. It’s very crowded inside and all the surface is used to the maximum to fit tables and chairs.
The staff is extremely friendly, and our waiter suggested some pasta we should try. It was a really good choice. They looked and tasted amazing. So amazing that the lady sitting at the table next to us with several plates in front of her had to ask us about how they were. Don’t get me wrong, she was a fit lady, who really adored Italian food and enjoyed trying everything.
What was funny was that she spoke to the waiter in French. And when she talked to Mathieu, she spoke in English until I pointed out that they could have a conversation in French.
Back to the food, after finishing our pasta and most of our wine, we asked for dessert. And this is when Mathieu started his quest of trying the tiramisu everywhere we went to eat from then on. I’ll be honest, the competition was fierce right from the start, as Da Tonino’s set a high standard with their homemade tiramisu. It was the best tiramisu I had until then. And so pretty, too!
Once again, we got really lucky with our timing. When we left, there were small groups of people in front of Da Tonino and across the street, waiting for a table to become available.
Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne
After having a delicious lunch at Da Tonino, we wend down Via del Governo Vecchio to Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne. It is a Renaissance palace, designed by Baldassarre Peruzzi on the site of three palaces which burned down in 1527. The palaces belonged to the Massimo family (old Roman family), hence the name.
Sant’Andrea della Valle
By now, the heat had caught up with me and I was feeling kind of dizzy. I went across the street from Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne and sat on some stairs, in the shadow. Right behind me, there was a church, and Mathieu suggested we go inside, where it should be cooler and maybe I’ll start feeling better.
I spent a lot of time sitting down, and just looking at my feet until I felt good enough to start looking around with Mathieu. It was really impressive, though we found the baby Jesus doll a bit creepy. It was only when we were exiting the church that we realised we had visited Sant’Andrea della Valle.
Though I was feeling a bit better, we chose to go back and take a nap before moving on with our explorations.
Wining and dining at Verso Sera
We returned to the centre of Rome after nightfall, quite hungry. The plan was to eat at Dar Filettaro, but it was very crowded outside. And Mathieu isn’t that big a fan of fish, anyway.
We started looking for a different place to eat and came across Hostaria Costanza. There, we went to talk about a table with a guy who was preparing some coquilles Saint Jacques while telling us it’s very difficult to find something at that time without a reservation. He finished what he was doing, had a look and told us sorry, but no.
I was getting really hungry and everywhere seemed to be completely full. And then we saw this place with some cute fairy lights outside. Mathieu said to try there, too, but I was all: no, it looks really nice, there’s no way we’ll find something there!
But he tried and that’s how we ended up having dinner at Verso Sera. And while I was waiting for the other shoe to drop and find something wrong with the place because we were able to get a table, I just couldn’t. It looked incredible inside, they had lots of wine options and they served it by the book.
And the food! We had pasta again and it was delicious. (Yes, from pizza-pizza-pizza we went to pasta-pasta-pasta.) And, for dessert, no tiramisu, but we found the next best thing: pistachio mousse.
We are very happy we found Verso Sera. We recommend it with all our heart, should you ever find yourself hungry and close to Campo de’ Fiori.
A fun evening in Rome’s Historic Centre
Speaking of Campo de’ Fiori, when we left there was a band playing covers (mostly rock). They were very good and charismatic and gathered quite a big crowd. It was really nice to see people from all over the world singing and dancing in the street, together.
We went back home in a very good mood. Day 3 was wonderful and we couldn’t wait for the next one. Especially since the intense part of our holiday was kind of over and the rest was a lot more relaxed and with a lot more room for just winging it.
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